Mendoza: Where to Wine Taste, Eat & Sleep

The barren surroundings, unmarked roads and mountainous backdrops of the Mendoza wine district serve as a goldmine for winemakers around the world. Located in the central west of Argentina, Mendoza snuggles up to the Andes Mountain range along the Chilean border. Mendoza’s century-old vines, rare microclimate and grape growth of up to 4,900 feet in elevation allow visitors to taste some of the world’s top wines year-round.

The main grape grown is the malbec, but you’ll also find the bonarda, syrah, cabernet, chardonnay, merlot and semillón grapes. When I was living in Buenos Aires, I wrote my journalism thesis on the vital relationship between Argentine and Californian winemakers in Mendoza, and I had the privilege of meeting some of the most famous wine gurus of our time. That being the case, I have a gazillion favorite places to wine taste and dine in Mendoza, but I’ll only name my top few below.

Where to Wine Taste and Eat

In my opinion, one of the most spectacular sights in Mendoza is winemaker Nicolas Catena Zapata’s Bodega Uxmal. In the midst of 370 acres of vineyards, this Mayan-inspired pyramid looks out onto the Andes mountain range and offers tastings of exceptionally made wines, such as the Uxmal cabernet/malbec blend.

Zapata also co-owns the very chic 1884 Restaurante with renowned chef Francis Mallmann. Located on the outskirts of town, this restaurant serves grilled, organic meats such as veal and lamb, exotically prepared vegetables and mouthwatering pastas. Be prepared to pay more than you think, but the 15 minute drive outside of town and the high prices are well worth the exclusive dining experience. (Photo of dining room by 1884restaurante.com.ar.)

For a personalized wine-tasting experience, I recommend visiting the quaint, family-run winery, Finca Viña Amalia. They make exceptional malbecs and cabernet sauvignons under the labels Viña Amalia and their high-end line, Carlos Basso. 

Tastings take place in their winery, which was originally built in 1930. The building has since been renovated, but still preserves its original look with a rustic tiled roof, high ceilings and an adobe tower in the central patio.

An ideal place to indulge in a hearty lunch around 1 or 2 p.m. is at the Familia Zuccardi winery. Here you’re served a never-ending flow of empanadas and grilled meats. And of course, your glass will stay full with some of the most full-bodied wines in Argentina. To arrive at the restaurant, you actually have to walk through the vineyards. The dining area is made up of large windows and a transparent roof, making you feel as if you’re picnicking among the vineyards. If you want to participate in a cooking class or help during the cosecha (harvest), you can organize it with a travel agency. If you choose to pick grapes during harvest time, remember that the seasons are opposite the northern hemisphere, so Argentine’s wine harvest takes place between February and April.

To taste the most amazing and out-of-this-world wines, visit Viña Cobos or pick up a bottle of winemaker Paul Hobb’s “El Cocodrilo” or “El Felino” in a local wine boutique. The only drawback about visiting Viña Cobos is that you must reserve a visit in advance.

Where to Stay

Another great find is the restaurant and seven-roomed hotel, Club Tapiz. This small hotel, restaurant and bar is located on an estate built in 1890 and is completely surrounded by vineyards. 

The restaurant Terruño has warm burgundy and mustard colored walls with pinewood floors. The food is elegantly prepared and paired with Tapiz wines. 

If you stay the night, bring a swim suit for the pool, and be sure to request the room with a window, as there is only one available! Another idea is to stay at an estancia outside of town for a few nights. My friends, who recently traveled to Mendoza, recommend the three bedroom Estancia Rancho' E Cuero, just a two hour drive from the city and located at the base of the Nivero de Plata Glacier. 

They were spoiled with three meals a day, delicious regional wines and a traditional teatime in the afternoon. Activities at the estancia include horseback riding, hiking, condor watching and rock climbing in the nearby mountains. Otherwise you can opt to relax and read a book in the cozy library. (Photo of estancia by ranchoecuero.com.ar.)

For a truly grand hotel experience, and to be situated in the town center, stay at the luxurious Mendoza Park Hyatt. It has a fancy restaurant, a casino and a beautiful spa. Indulge and let me know what you think!

Activities to Do In/Around Mendoza

If you have some free time to wander around the main town of Mendoza, visit one of its Spanish-tiled plazas or enjoy a café con leche along the pedestrian street. Just 25 miles outside the city is the Mendoza River, which has become a hot spot for whitewater rafting, kayaking, horseback riding, mountain biking and hiking.

Booking Travel

You can easily purchase day-trip packages for wine tours and sporting activities, which provide transportation to/from hotel, and usually a rustic asado (Argentine barbeque) in the wine country or mountains. I recommend booking all day-trip tours and any additional travel around Argentina/South America through Exprinter Viajes or Partir Viajes travel agencies. Both are very reliable and offer great rates. 


Using a trusted Argentine travel agency will save you up to 50% in costs, as opposed to booking travel and packages through a U.S. travel agency. Exprinter Viajes can also create very personalized tours if you have special requests. 

***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's blog on tips of how to enjoy luxurious travel in the Patagonia…

Northern Argentina: Estancia Colomé

It’s 90 degrees and dusty. I’m in Northern Argentina near Salta. There’s no air conditioning in the rental car, so with the windows rolled down, I wipe the sand from my eyes while driving up the switchback dirt road going from Salta to Molinos.(Photo of map by Wikipedia.com.)

Reaching 7,500 feet in elevation, my destination is the highest vineyard in the world and the oldest in Argentina, Estancia Colomé.

Built by Swiss international winemaker, Donald Hess, this multimillion-dollar project converted an ancient one-room winery into a luxurious spa and small hotel. The vision of Hess’s estancia has always intrigued me: wine-makers from California manning dry and rugged terrain, attempting to grow grapes at the world’s highest altitude with little water, no electricity and speaking broken Spanish. I decide to take a road-trip and see for myself. (All photos of Estancia Colomé by estanciacolome.com.)

Along the drive, my eyes feast on jagged mountains, weathered gauchos on horseback and indigenous ruins with cactus-spotted foregrounds in the Calchaqui Valley. I feel completely distanced from any sign of urban life.

I pass a string of pueblos and do some souvenir shopping in Cachí in the open-air plaza. I stop for lunch at a one-roomed restaurant and order the menú del día (daily special) with a glass of the region's Malbec wine, all for just $3. My lunch consists of empanadas (puffed pastries stuffed with beef), a bowl of beef and potato locro stew, and sweet corn humita puree. By the time I pay the bill, the town is dead silent; everyone is taking their afternoon siesta (nap). (Photo of woman by the road by Daniel Grech.)

I hop in the car and navigate the last stretch of the sandy, rocky and barren road. The drive from Salta takes me five-hours, but it’s worth the tense shoulders and stiff legs. I drive up a tree-lined driveway to the illuminated salmon-colored estancia where the concierge warmly greets me and two bellboys take my bags. I inhale the dry, clean air mixed with a sweet aroma of baking bread.

I’m shown through the open-air courtyard with rancho-style stucco walls, rustic wood benches, red-tiled floors and a trickling stone fountain in the center. The suites are positioned around the courtyard and my room is the same size as my entire apartment, nearly 600 sq ft. It’s equipped with a king-size bed, 1,000 thread-count sheets, fireplace, jacuzzi bathtub, a large private patio overlooking the staggering Calchaquies mountain range and Wi-Fi Internet connection.

After resting up, I’m invited by the concierge to have appetizers in the library at 9 p.m. (Argentines generally eat dinner between 9 and 12pm). I sit with the other guests on the large leather couches next to a crackling fireplace and we are served a plate of baked empanadas and a glass of the red varietal, Colomé Reserve.

Next, they escort us to the dining room filled with candles glowing against the orange-colored walls. Our three-course meal consists of glazed wild mushrooms on mixed greens, top-sirloin stuffed with blue cheese and pine nuts, and a lemon tart pie with vanilla ice cream – all prepared with free-range livestock, fruits and vegetables cultivated on Hess’s organic farm.

To top it all off, I have a nightcap at the gaucho-style bar and loose to a game of backgammon (surprising, I know!).

At 8 a.m. I wake to a knock on the door. A breakfast tray overflowing with warm croissants and muffins, homemade granola and yogurt, fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee is waiting at my doorstep. I eat on my private patio with a pristine view of the sunrise, mountains, cactus and vineyards. Even though my visit is encroaching upon Argentina’s winter (July to September), it’s warm and the sun shines brightly.

At 9 a.m. I take a tour of the winery and taste Malbec wines straight from the oak barrels. When I get back, the horses are already saddled for my ride. The docile Peruvian Paso breed does everything I tell it to do. These horses are renowned for the way they push their hooves out to the side while walking, so I feel as if I’m floating rather than bumping along on a trail horse. I gallop through red canyons, sparse rivers, purple vineyards and rugged land full of cardón cactus plants. (Photo of Peruvian Paso by cowboyfrank.net.)

Dismounting with aching legs, my lunch is waiting for me on the Spanish-style terraza surrounded by willow trees and a view of vineyards. I’m served yet another three-course meal which ends with a scoop of fresh lemon sorbet and coca tea to help with digestion and the high altitude.

As you can imagine, I am truly exhausted from all the eating and horseback riding, so I pamper myself with a Swedish massage at the spa. Other afternoon activities I could  partake in include yoga in the meditation room, putting on a green, playing tennis or bocce ball and going on a bicycle tour. Unfortunately the eternity pool is too cold to enjoy during the winter months, but it’s beautiful to look at among the cactus garden.

Helpful Information About Colomé:

Web site: www.estanciacolome.com

When to Go: Year Round

Getting there: Most visitors fly to Salta, and then rent a car for the 3-5 hour drive to Colomé. Transportation by the estancia is offered at extra cost from Salta Airport and Cafayate, also helicopter and private plane transport into Colomé can be arranged. American Airlines flies from Miami via Bolivia to Salta for around $1,200.

Lodging at Estancia Colomé: Prices are all-inclusive with a three-course meal at lunch and dinner, breakfast buffet and afternoon tea. Wines are sold separately. Special two and three-day package deals are offered from $400 to $640/per person.

Reservations: A 50% advanced deposit must be guaranteed by a bank transfer or credit card. (A full refund will be given if the cancellation is more than 72 hours in advance). They accept Visa, Master Card and American Express. Check-in time is 3 p.m. and check-out time is noon. E-mail: reservas@estanciacolome.com,

Information: Tel: (from the U.S.) 011+54 (0) 3868 49-40-44,

Fax: 011+54 (0) 3868 49 40 43

Guided Tours: Guided tours are available in English, German or French around the Northwest area of Salta and Jujuy.

Need to bring: Sun block, hydrating lotion, lip protection, a good hat and walking shoes.

Location: 7,546 ft above sea level in the Calchaqui Valley in northwest Argentina.

Temperature: Summer: High 90/Low 68 F, Winter temperature: High 70/Low 38 F, with a mild, dry climate.

What to know: The conversion rate is $1 to 3 Argentine pesos. Visas are not required for U.S. citizens traveling within a 3-month time frame to Argentina.

Year-round Festivals:

National Poncho Festival in Molinos, February

Regional Food Expo in Cachí, March

Semana Santa in Seclantas, Easter

May Revolution in Salta, May 25

Empanada Festival in Salta, July

All Saint’s Day in Molinos, Nov 1

Stay tuned to next week's post on my top recommendations of places to eat, stay and wine taste in Mendoza, Argentina…

Buenos Aires: Where to Eat (Part 2)

Let’s see, where were we...oh, yes…biting into a juicy piece of steak and swirling a deep red wine in your mouth…or not quite yet. In last week’s blog post, I wrote about my top recommendations of where to eat breakfast and lunch in Buenos Aires. Below are my top picks of where to order a juicy piece of steak or grilled fish, homemade pasta and the perfect glass of wine to accompany your dinner. In this post, I recommend my favorite vinos (wines) and places to eat cena (dinner) and postre (dessert).  But before I jump in...PLEASE remember that Argentines do not dine before 9 p.m. Regular dinner hours are anywhere from 9-12 p.m., so if you book a reservation before this time, you will find yourself dining alone.

Vinos: Wines

For a mini-lesson on Argentine wines, the main grape grown in Argentina is the Malbec, which was brought over a century ago from Cahors, France. You will also find wines made from the Bonarda, Torrontes, Syrah, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot and Semillon grapes. In most restaurants there are some unique finds (and personal favorites) such as the intense, full-bodied Carlos Basso Malbec from the Viña Amalia Winery or the Altos Hormigas Malbec. Also, you can never go wrong ordering a bottle of a Catena Zapata wine, such as the Alamos Malbec. (Photo of wine glass by kickbuttcoffee.com.)

If you are interested in learning more about Argentina’s booming wine regions among foreign winemakers, you can start by tasting wines from California’s own Paul Hobbs, who started Viña Cobos winery in Mendoza, Argentina ten years ago. Try the full-bodied 2002 Cobos Malbec, which scored 95 points in the Wine Spectator magazine.

Cena: Dinner

El Mirasol and Juana M – Both of these restaurants specialize in grilling almost every part of the cow and come highly recommended by Argentines and travelers alike. Bife de lomo (filet mignon/tenderloin), bife de chorizo (t-bone), asado de tira (side ribs) and entraña (center cut) are just some of the dozens of meat options. For fish lovers, try the white salmon from Argentina’s costal town, Mar Del Plata, or ask for the fresh-water trout from the Patagonia region. 

Remember that all beef dishes come a la carte, so if you want more food, order a salad or a side to accompany your meal. Some typical side dishes are papas fritas (French fries) or espinaca a la crema (creamed spinach). A three-course dinner for two with a fine bottle of local Malbec wine will cost around $30. Both restaurants are located in the Recoleta neighborhood (just click on the link for the addresses and telephone). (Photo of steak and salad by El Mirasol.)

El Ultimo Beso – This restaurant is called "The Last Kiss" in Spanish, and it is truly for the romantic at heart. El Ultimo Beso is situated in a French-style house in Palermo, where the front half is a boutique clothing store, and the back area is a whimsical eatery and open garden. The white tables are scattered with rose petals and love-letters scribbled with poetry delicately dangle from the chandeliers. You feel as if you are lost in a lover’s embrace when you glance around the room at the black and white photos of couples kissing.  

The food is extremely gourmet and the service is impeccable. Prices are reasonable too. The fresh fish of the day is always my favorite choice, as well as the homemade risotto. For dessert, be sure to try the volcán de chocolate (chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream). You’ll need reservations, so call a day in advance. Address: Nicaragua 4880, Palermo Viejo. Tel: (00 54 11) 4832-7711

Casa Cruz - For elite dining in the neighborhood, and an excuse to break away from Argentina’s carnivore-centric cuisine, you should try the stylish Casa Cruz Restaurant. Towering brass doors lead you into a softly lit room with an oval shaped bar, long sofas and burgundy velvet chairs. The entire back wall of the dining area is built of glass, converted into a transparent wine cellar with a view of the kitchen.

The chef, German Martitegui, is among the most famous in Buenos Aires, preparing dishes that are substantial in quantity and always delicately presented. Some past menu items included lightly smoked red tuna with lentil bean salad or grilled octopus with passion fruit puree. An average entrée costs around $14. The list of 100-plus wines represents Argentina’s best, and ranges in price from $7 to $200 a bottle. If you’re just going for a drink, try the lychee martini…it is so smooth.

Since it opened just a few years ago, Casa Cruz has become the craze for Argentine models and businessmen, where visits from international pop-stars like Enrique Iglesias (I sat next to him!) and actors such as Colin Farrell and Benicio Del Toro are everyday occurrences. Be sure to make your reservations at least two days in advance. Address: Uriarte 1658, Palermo. Tel: (00 54 11) 4833-1112. (Photo of Casa Cruz by Casa Cruz and photo of lychee martini by Foodnetwork.com.)

Bar Uriarte – Just around the corner from Casa Cruz is a cozy restaurant that is perfect for before/after drinks or dinner. Get crazy and order Argentina's refreshing anise-flavored drink called a fernet y coca (fernet liquor with coke on ice). With Bar Uriarte's own clay oven, you can’t go wrong ordering the fresh baked pastas or oven-roasted beef dishes. Most of my friends swear by the ribs dish. Usually no reservations are necessary. Address: Uriarte 1572, Palermo. Tel: (00 54 11) 4834-6004. (Photo of Bar Uriarte by Jaunted.com.)

Postre: Dessert Spots

Munchi’s, Persico and Freddo – All three chains offer the BEST gourmet gelato I have ever tasted in my life (and they deliver to your home or hotel too).  These places are open until 4 a.m. on weekends, so you’ll notice crowds of Argentines going for a late-night snack after dinner or the bars. 

My favorite flavors are the dulce de leche granizado (caramel cream with bits of chocolate) or the crema tramontana (vanilla cream, swirled caramel and chunks of chocolate). Ordering is a bit tricky. You must first stand in line, give the cashier your order (just tell him/her the size of the scoop, not the flavor) and then pay. He/she will hand  you a receipt and you give that piece of paper to the gelato-scooper guy, who will then fill your cone or cup with the flavor you want. These gelato chains are located on almost every corner of Buenos Aires. (Photo of gelato by nclrc.com.)

In addition to my recommendations above, I recently read an article in the NY Times Travel Section titled “36 Hours in Buenos Aires” and it gives some different suggestions on places to eat. You can read it here to find out more spots: http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/01/31/travel/31hours.html?ref=travel

***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's post on my favorite estancia in northern Argentina…