Patagonia: Chile - Where to Stay

When you think you’ve seen all the beauty you can handle on the Argentina side of the Patagonia…sorry to let you know…but you’re wrong. 

The Torres del Paine National Park steps it up to a whole new level: picturesque views of 
jagged snow-capped mountains, ice blue waters, rumbling rivers, alpaca and wild horses walking across the road in front of you…anyone who snaps a photo will realize that nature has turned him/her into an instant Ansel Adams. All of a sudden, those pictures that normally don’t turn out for you will develop marvelously. Why?  Because the lighting is just perfect and the color contrasts create a precise balance in nature. I’ve never seen anything like it.

Tips Before You Go
However, there are a few things to note if you’re driving from Calafate to the Chilean border. It takes about eight hours due to rocky, dirt roads and poor signage. Before you head out, be sure to stock your car with sandwiches, snacks and water in Calafate, as there are few restaurants along the way. 

Also, remember to leave early in the morning so that you’re not stuck at the Argentina/Chile border in the dark (it’s out in the middle of nowhere). The two last, most important tips are: FUEL UP BEFORE YOU CROSS THE BORDER and EXCHANGE MONEY TO CHILEAN PESOS! Both of these are a must, as there are no gas stations in the Torres Del Paine National Park, and everyone is reluctant to help since gas is so hard to come by. There are also no banks, and most places are cash only (Chilean pesos).

Places to Stay
I stayed all four nights at Hostería Lago Grey, located on the west end of the park. However, I would recommend staying only one night there, and three nights at either the rustic, all-inclusive Hotel Las Torres or at the upscale, all-inclusive Explora Lodge. This way, you’ll experience a variety of areas of the park, and see starkly different breath-taking views while you dine, hike and explore.

Hostería Lago Grey has comfortable and affordable bungalows settled in the midst of a tiny forest. The food is edible, but nothing to rave about. 

The best part is that the bar overlooks the Lago Grey Glacier and floating icebergs. You can easily take a walk around the lake from the hotel (however, be prepared for extremely high winds…bring sun glasses, a wind-proof jacket with hood, gloves, scarves, everything, because the sand whips against your face as you walk). There are also some pleasant day-hike loops nearby that bring you to small waterfalls.

The Hotel Las Torres has a classy and outdoorsy feel. Its tall, wooden ceilings and large windows show off the base of the Torres del Paine Mountain. The hotel is located on the east side of the park and is only three miles from the famous Los Cuernos Mountain. 

There is a minimum three-night stay at this lodge, which includes meals, full bar, guided treks and horseback riding excursions (roughly $500/night - three night minimum stay). This is also the jumping off point to the popular 4-7 day hiking loop.  (Photos of Hotel Las Torres by lastorres.com.)

For a ritzy, fashionable, all-inclusive experience in the Patagonia, the Explora Lodge provides three gourmet meals a day, full bar service, a room with a view of Lake Pehoe, boat rides, horseback rides, bike excursions and guided treks, all for a very high price tag (roughly $1000/night - three night minimum stay). But I must say, everyone I know that has stayed there just adores this hotel. If you have the money, go for it. (Photo of Explora by torresdelpaine.com.)

Patagonia: Argentina vs. Chile?
In my honest opinion, even though Torres del Paine is shockingly beautiful, I enjoyed the Argentina side of the Patagonia more. There are a few reasons why, so I’ll list them below:

• I received much more of a warm, gracious welcome from the Argentines in the Patagonia. The Chileans are nice, but cold.
• Argentina is more accommodating with money. They accept dollars, pesos, or credit cards in most places.
• The food is much better, the meat and fish taste fresher.
• There seem to be more options of excursions and day treks from Calafate than in/around the Torres del Paine National Park.
• The Chilean Patagonia is super duper windy! 

***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's blog on Miami hot spots, art shows and upcoming music events!