Monday, September 13, 2010

Cuba: Sunny, Carefree…and Too Darn Expensive!

Havana: Traveling on a Budget

Humid days and mojito-filled nights. Sounds of African drums, Spanish guitars and maracas fill the air while you shake your hips to the rhythm of the Son cubano. White smiles, run-down buildings, waves crashing against the stone wall of the Malecon avenue...these were my first impressions when I took a 15-day trip to Cuba. Below are some useful travel tips when planning your trip to Cuba...so read on...

We traveled by car around the island, starting in Havana, then to Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Varadero, Vinales and back to Havana.
However, we did not stay in costly beach resorts, nor partake in pre-arranged educational tours, which run roughly $5000 per person for 7 days. Instead, we bumbled along the streets with the locals and stayed in casa particulares (homes rented out by families). We ate warm buttermilk biscuits, fresh pineapple and mango and drank the muddy coffee that the Cubans kindly served us for breakfast. (photo of mojitos by www.growcookeat.com)

What to Expect

When we took walking trips to downtown Havana, it felt like a throwback to the communist Russia days. The depressed vacant window-displays were evidence that there was literally nothing to buy, due to lack of imports into the country. But ironically, there were plentitudes of workers inside each shop. 
Lines for eggs, meat, pencils, weekly rations of rice and beans were a common site a well. For anyone who has been to Cuba in the past 40 years, they know that these images have been frozen in time. 

I guess we were basically prepared for those sights, but one thing definitely shocked us: Who knew that food, hotel, and transportation would be so darn expensive in a place where the average wage is $12 a month per person? Around the country we found that most basic double rooms start at $150, a meager breakfast of coffee and toast costs $8, and dinner at a decent restaurant costs around $25 per person. 

Doing it Cheap

Although expensive, there are ways to budget travel in Cuba, which we learned along the way. It guaranteed us cheaper costs and constant contact with the culture. Be sure to ask locals and tourists for a good casa particular. A small blue triangular sign above the door points the way. These houses, converted into bed and breakfasts, have been inspected by the government, and they must be under good condition and have clean quarters. Prices vary in different regions of Cuba, but in Havanna we stayed in the center for $15 per person.The host family is usually very helpful, providing maps and directions, and they typically serves a large breakfast for 3$ extra per person. 

My personal favorite was staying at the cheerful "Aurora's Casa Particular."After dragging our baggage up two flights of steep marble stairs, we stayed in two large, basic rooms, with a shared bathroom.
From the house, we were just a few blocks walking distance to Plaza de las Armas. Along the way there were colorful fruit carts, people happily chatting on street corners, balconies heavy with laundry and white sheets flapping in the wind, tuk-tuk motorcycles zooming by, stunning cathedrals, courtyards,  European architecture and quaint squares. 
From there, we climbed the stairs to the roof-top deck overlooking Havana, at the hotel Ambos Mundos. They claim that Hemingway rented a room there in the 1960’s. We sipped on cubanitos (a bloody mary made with rum) and enjoyed the balmy evening.

Be sure to take a taxi to the fort. But be prepared for a plethora of political propaganda on billboards along the street. Billboards we saw said things such as "Viva la Revolución" (long live the revolution) with a picture of Fidel Castro's arm wrapped around Che Guevara and others that said "La Injustia Tiembla" (injustice shakes).

Havana Highlights
You won't want to miss the Museo de la Revolucion. It is a time warp and very interesting to see history told from the eye of a different storyteller.  Eat at the Fresas y Chocolate Paladar (a home that has been converted into a dinner-time restaurant). It is quaint, romantic and they serve the fresh fish catch of the day.

Walk to the Plaza Vieja, which had builings from the new UNESCO remodeling and from the old era. It was interesting to see the contrasts between the new/old world. It gave a taste of how Havanna once was. From there, hop on a rickshaw, like those typically seen in India, and ride to the National Art Museum of Bellas Artes. It's definitely worth it, housing a collection of Cuban modern art from the 1800’s through today. You can see how the artists were inspired by Picasso and Warhol.
Car Rentals
To take a trip around the island, we decided to rent a car, which was basically a crazy thing to do. Just know that the car you rent starts off with an empty gas tank. Drive immediately to the gas station and fill the car up, otherwise you'll be stranded, like we were. Also, be prepared to pay with cash. Cuba is a cash-based society (euros are even better to have on hand, you'll get a far better exchange rate).


***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication.Stay tuned for my next post on the art of an Argentine asados....

2 comments:

Unknown said...

You brought back fabulous memories. Can't wait to go back to Cuba. Thanks for all the good ideas. Great pictures!

Molly Malone said...

Yes! Such great memories!