Venice Beach: Art Walk

Venice Beach, California. The doors are open. Hip onlookers check out eclectic sculptures and paintings while chatting with the artists in their private studios.

This Saturday and Sunday, May 22-23, you’ll get a chance to meander down Venice walkways and visit over 50 art studios located in modern lofts, small cottages and cutting-edge spaces during the Venice Beach Art Walk event. 

Tickets are $50 for a self-guided walking tour or you can opt to take an organized “Art & Architecture Tour” for $100-$150. To purchase tickets online and for more information, visit: http://venicefamilyclinic.wordpress.com/.

After a few hours of art perusing, the hunger is sure to set in. Stroll over to Abbot Kinney Boulevard – a hangout for the Beat generation in the 50’s and 60s – where you’ll see an overflow of the creative crowd. 

To hang with the Euro-chic, sip a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and munch on Mediterranean-style tapas, then go to Primitivo, located at 1025 Abbot Kinney Blvd. 310-396-5353.

***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's blog on Miami hot spots!

Patagonia: Chile - Where to Stay

When you think you’ve seen all the beauty you can handle on the Argentina side of the Patagonia…sorry to let you know…but you’re wrong. 

The Torres del Paine National Park steps it up to a whole new level: picturesque views of 
jagged snow-capped mountains, ice blue waters, rumbling rivers, alpaca and wild horses walking across the road in front of you…anyone who snaps a photo will realize that nature has turned him/her into an instant Ansel Adams. All of a sudden, those pictures that normally don’t turn out for you will develop marvelously. Why?  Because the lighting is just perfect and the color contrasts create a precise balance in nature. I’ve never seen anything like it.

Tips Before You Go
However, there are a few things to note if you’re driving from Calafate to the Chilean border. It takes about eight hours due to rocky, dirt roads and poor signage. Before you head out, be sure to stock your car with sandwiches, snacks and water in Calafate, as there are few restaurants along the way. 

Also, remember to leave early in the morning so that you’re not stuck at the Argentina/Chile border in the dark (it’s out in the middle of nowhere). The two last, most important tips are: FUEL UP BEFORE YOU CROSS THE BORDER and EXCHANGE MONEY TO CHILEAN PESOS! Both of these are a must, as there are no gas stations in the Torres Del Paine National Park, and everyone is reluctant to help since gas is so hard to come by. There are also no banks, and most places are cash only (Chilean pesos).

Places to Stay
I stayed all four nights at Hostería Lago Grey, located on the west end of the park. However, I would recommend staying only one night there, and three nights at either the rustic, all-inclusive Hotel Las Torres or at the upscale, all-inclusive Explora Lodge. This way, you’ll experience a variety of areas of the park, and see starkly different breath-taking views while you dine, hike and explore.

Hostería Lago Grey has comfortable and affordable bungalows settled in the midst of a tiny forest. The food is edible, but nothing to rave about. 

The best part is that the bar overlooks the Lago Grey Glacier and floating icebergs. You can easily take a walk around the lake from the hotel (however, be prepared for extremely high winds…bring sun glasses, a wind-proof jacket with hood, gloves, scarves, everything, because the sand whips against your face as you walk). There are also some pleasant day-hike loops nearby that bring you to small waterfalls.

The Hotel Las Torres has a classy and outdoorsy feel. Its tall, wooden ceilings and large windows show off the base of the Torres del Paine Mountain. The hotel is located on the east side of the park and is only three miles from the famous Los Cuernos Mountain. 

There is a minimum three-night stay at this lodge, which includes meals, full bar, guided treks and horseback riding excursions (roughly $500/night - three night minimum stay). This is also the jumping off point to the popular 4-7 day hiking loop.  (Photos of Hotel Las Torres by lastorres.com.)

For a ritzy, fashionable, all-inclusive experience in the Patagonia, the Explora Lodge provides three gourmet meals a day, full bar service, a room with a view of Lake Pehoe, boat rides, horseback rides, bike excursions and guided treks, all for a very high price tag (roughly $1000/night - three night minimum stay). But I must say, everyone I know that has stayed there just adores this hotel. If you have the money, go for it. (Photo of Explora by torresdelpaine.com.)

Patagonia: Argentina vs. Chile?
In my honest opinion, even though Torres del Paine is shockingly beautiful, I enjoyed the Argentina side of the Patagonia more. There are a few reasons why, so I’ll list them below:

• I received much more of a warm, gracious welcome from the Argentines in the Patagonia. The Chileans are nice, but cold.
• Argentina is more accommodating with money. They accept dollars, pesos, or credit cards in most places.
• The food is much better, the meat and fish taste fresher.
• There seem to be more options of excursions and day treks from Calafate than in/around the Torres del Paine National Park.
• The Chilean Patagonia is super duper windy! 

***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's blog on Miami hot spots, art shows and upcoming music events!

Patagonia: Argentina - Where to Stay

It’s the end of summer right now in Argentina and Chile. Why pack a bag full of scarves, wool hats, fluffy jackets and hiking boots to go to the cold Patagonia when you could slip into a bikini and relax on the beach in Punta del Este, Uruguay? For years I wrestled with this question.

I’ll tell you why: staggering mountains, crisp air, enormous glaciers, kind hospitality, gourmet food, stunning views…and the list goes on. 

After years of friends and family trying to convince me to go down to the Patagonia, I booked a rather “luxury” style all-inclusive 12-day trip through Exprinter Viajes travel agency. Previously, my friends had arranged the same trip through a U.S. travel agency, and it cost them three times more. I paid $4,400 for everything – airfare to Calafate from Buenos Aires, car rental, luxury hotels/B&Bs, trekking guides, gourmet meals, excursions, horseback riding, glacier boat trips…and every penny was worth it.

 

Below is my itinerary to the Patagonia (Argentina), with a few other important tidbits that I would have liked to know along the way before I left home. The best time of the year to go is late November to early March. I’ll write about the Patagonia (Chile) in next week’s blog post.

Kau Yatún Hotel de Campo (Calafate) – I stayed one night here to jumpstart my trip. This hotel is comfortable, the service is great and it’s located fairly near town. (Photo of Kau Yatún by Orbitz.com.)

They have a great restaurant on the premise, offering homemade emapandas, grilled steaks and a live show of Patagonian music/dance. Bikes are also available for hotel guests, so you can explore the one-street downtown or ride to the natural bird lagoon close by.

Hostería Altavista (Calafate) – I stayed two nights at this lovely B&B, to get a more remote experience. 

This quaint, seven-room house is located on the outskirts of Calafate in the middle of rolling hills and pastures. 

The experience is all-inclusive, with home-cooked meals, glacier excursions, horseback riding trips, as well as tours to nearby estancias. The Argentine couple who runs the place is very warm and helpful. I would highly recommend that you include this B&B in your itinerary.

Los Notros (Calafate) –  This hotel is extremely upscale and sits directly in front of the Perito Moreno Glacier. If you can't afford to stay here, then stop by for a cup of tea, and relax at its bar overlooking the lake. This is your jumping off point to go trekking on the glacier or take a boat ride around to all the various glaciers and to the national park.

Hostería Los Cerros (El Chalten) – You won’t want to miss visiting El Chaltén. From Calafate, it’s just a three-hour drive north to the small trekking village nestled between mountains and glaciers. 

This town was the highlight of my trip, as it is remote and the Argentines are so welcoming. (As a side note,  be prepared for strong winds. Make sure you pack a durable coat with a hood.) 

The Los Cerros hotel is pure luxury for this tiny town. You’re greeted with champagne, beer or tea/coffee and a picada (appetizer of cheese and cold cuts). 

Before you set off on your guided hiking excursion in the morning to see the famous Cerro Fitz Roy, you’re invited to feast at the breakfast buffet, which offers fresh fruits, nuts, homemade  bread and rosa mosqueta jam made from Patagonian berries. 

To completely spoil its guests, the hotel packs you a personalized lunch in a backpack for your day trip. And after your long excursion, you'll return to a relaxing jacuzzi dip or massage and enjoy a gourmet three-course dinner, with your choice of fresh trout, beef or pasta.

Since the town only consists of one pub, a wine bar and a few shops, you really can’t miss anything. But, make sure you stop into El Rincon wine bar and get a glass of Malbec and enjoy a fresh plate of salami with olives. 


There is also a cozy, bustling pub, which sells its own beers on tap and dishes out bowls of crunchy peanuts. Trekkers and guides love to unwind at this spot after a long day in the mountains.


***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's blog on tips for traveling to the Patagonia in Chile....

Mendoza: Where to Wine Taste, Eat & Sleep

The barren surroundings, unmarked roads and mountainous backdrops of the Mendoza wine district serve as a goldmine for winemakers around the world. Located in the central west of Argentina, Mendoza snuggles up to the Andes Mountain range along the Chilean border. Mendoza’s century-old vines, rare microclimate and grape growth of up to 4,900 feet in elevation allow visitors to taste some of the world’s top wines year-round.

The main grape grown is the malbec, but you’ll also find the bonarda, syrah, cabernet, chardonnay, merlot and semillón grapes. When I was living in Buenos Aires, I wrote my journalism thesis on the vital relationship between Argentine and Californian winemakers in Mendoza, and I had the privilege of meeting some of the most famous wine gurus of our time. That being the case, I have a gazillion favorite places to wine taste and dine in Mendoza, but I’ll only name my top few below.

Where to Wine Taste and Eat

In my opinion, one of the most spectacular sights in Mendoza is winemaker Nicolas Catena Zapata’s Bodega Uxmal. In the midst of 370 acres of vineyards, this Mayan-inspired pyramid looks out onto the Andes mountain range and offers tastings of exceptionally made wines, such as the Uxmal cabernet/malbec blend.

Zapata also co-owns the very chic 1884 Restaurante with renowned chef Francis Mallmann. Located on the outskirts of town, this restaurant serves grilled, organic meats such as veal and lamb, exotically prepared vegetables and mouthwatering pastas. Be prepared to pay more than you think, but the 15 minute drive outside of town and the high prices are well worth the exclusive dining experience. (Photo of dining room by 1884restaurante.com.ar.)

For a personalized wine-tasting experience, I recommend visiting the quaint, family-run winery, Finca Viña Amalia. They make exceptional malbecs and cabernet sauvignons under the labels Viña Amalia and their high-end line, Carlos Basso. 

Tastings take place in their winery, which was originally built in 1930. The building has since been renovated, but still preserves its original look with a rustic tiled roof, high ceilings and an adobe tower in the central patio.

An ideal place to indulge in a hearty lunch around 1 or 2 p.m. is at the Familia Zuccardi winery. Here you’re served a never-ending flow of empanadas and grilled meats. And of course, your glass will stay full with some of the most full-bodied wines in Argentina. To arrive at the restaurant, you actually have to walk through the vineyards. The dining area is made up of large windows and a transparent roof, making you feel as if you’re picnicking among the vineyards. If you want to participate in a cooking class or help during the cosecha (harvest), you can organize it with a travel agency. If you choose to pick grapes during harvest time, remember that the seasons are opposite the northern hemisphere, so Argentine’s wine harvest takes place between February and April.

To taste the most amazing and out-of-this-world wines, visit Viña Cobos or pick up a bottle of winemaker Paul Hobb’s “El Cocodrilo” or “El Felino” in a local wine boutique. The only drawback about visiting Viña Cobos is that you must reserve a visit in advance.

Where to Stay

Another great find is the restaurant and seven-roomed hotel, Club Tapiz. This small hotel, restaurant and bar is located on an estate built in 1890 and is completely surrounded by vineyards. 

The restaurant Terruño has warm burgundy and mustard colored walls with pinewood floors. The food is elegantly prepared and paired with Tapiz wines. 

If you stay the night, bring a swim suit for the pool, and be sure to request the room with a window, as there is only one available! Another idea is to stay at an estancia outside of town for a few nights. My friends, who recently traveled to Mendoza, recommend the three bedroom Estancia Rancho' E Cuero, just a two hour drive from the city and located at the base of the Nivero de Plata Glacier. 

They were spoiled with three meals a day, delicious regional wines and a traditional teatime in the afternoon. Activities at the estancia include horseback riding, hiking, condor watching and rock climbing in the nearby mountains. Otherwise you can opt to relax and read a book in the cozy library. (Photo of estancia by ranchoecuero.com.ar.)

For a truly grand hotel experience, and to be situated in the town center, stay at the luxurious Mendoza Park Hyatt. It has a fancy restaurant, a casino and a beautiful spa. Indulge and let me know what you think!

Activities to Do In/Around Mendoza

If you have some free time to wander around the main town of Mendoza, visit one of its Spanish-tiled plazas or enjoy a café con leche along the pedestrian street. Just 25 miles outside the city is the Mendoza River, which has become a hot spot for whitewater rafting, kayaking, horseback riding, mountain biking and hiking.

Booking Travel

You can easily purchase day-trip packages for wine tours and sporting activities, which provide transportation to/from hotel, and usually a rustic asado (Argentine barbeque) in the wine country or mountains. I recommend booking all day-trip tours and any additional travel around Argentina/South America through Exprinter Viajes or Partir Viajes travel agencies. Both are very reliable and offer great rates. 


Using a trusted Argentine travel agency will save you up to 50% in costs, as opposed to booking travel and packages through a U.S. travel agency. Exprinter Viajes can also create very personalized tours if you have special requests. 

***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's blog on tips of how to enjoy luxurious travel in the Patagonia…

Northern Argentina: Estancia Colomé

It’s 90 degrees and dusty. I’m in Northern Argentina near Salta. There’s no air conditioning in the rental car, so with the windows rolled down, I wipe the sand from my eyes while driving up the switchback dirt road going from Salta to Molinos.(Photo of map by Wikipedia.com.)

Reaching 7,500 feet in elevation, my destination is the highest vineyard in the world and the oldest in Argentina, Estancia Colomé.

Built by Swiss international winemaker, Donald Hess, this multimillion-dollar project converted an ancient one-room winery into a luxurious spa and small hotel. The vision of Hess’s estancia has always intrigued me: wine-makers from California manning dry and rugged terrain, attempting to grow grapes at the world’s highest altitude with little water, no electricity and speaking broken Spanish. I decide to take a road-trip and see for myself. (All photos of Estancia Colomé by estanciacolome.com.)

Along the drive, my eyes feast on jagged mountains, weathered gauchos on horseback and indigenous ruins with cactus-spotted foregrounds in the Calchaqui Valley. I feel completely distanced from any sign of urban life.

I pass a string of pueblos and do some souvenir shopping in Cachí in the open-air plaza. I stop for lunch at a one-roomed restaurant and order the menú del día (daily special) with a glass of the region's Malbec wine, all for just $3. My lunch consists of empanadas (puffed pastries stuffed with beef), a bowl of beef and potato locro stew, and sweet corn humita puree. By the time I pay the bill, the town is dead silent; everyone is taking their afternoon siesta (nap). (Photo of woman by the road by Daniel Grech.)

I hop in the car and navigate the last stretch of the sandy, rocky and barren road. The drive from Salta takes me five-hours, but it’s worth the tense shoulders and stiff legs. I drive up a tree-lined driveway to the illuminated salmon-colored estancia where the concierge warmly greets me and two bellboys take my bags. I inhale the dry, clean air mixed with a sweet aroma of baking bread.

I’m shown through the open-air courtyard with rancho-style stucco walls, rustic wood benches, red-tiled floors and a trickling stone fountain in the center. The suites are positioned around the courtyard and my room is the same size as my entire apartment, nearly 600 sq ft. It’s equipped with a king-size bed, 1,000 thread-count sheets, fireplace, jacuzzi bathtub, a large private patio overlooking the staggering Calchaquies mountain range and Wi-Fi Internet connection.

After resting up, I’m invited by the concierge to have appetizers in the library at 9 p.m. (Argentines generally eat dinner between 9 and 12pm). I sit with the other guests on the large leather couches next to a crackling fireplace and we are served a plate of baked empanadas and a glass of the red varietal, Colomé Reserve.

Next, they escort us to the dining room filled with candles glowing against the orange-colored walls. Our three-course meal consists of glazed wild mushrooms on mixed greens, top-sirloin stuffed with blue cheese and pine nuts, and a lemon tart pie with vanilla ice cream – all prepared with free-range livestock, fruits and vegetables cultivated on Hess’s organic farm.

To top it all off, I have a nightcap at the gaucho-style bar and loose to a game of backgammon (surprising, I know!).

At 8 a.m. I wake to a knock on the door. A breakfast tray overflowing with warm croissants and muffins, homemade granola and yogurt, fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee is waiting at my doorstep. I eat on my private patio with a pristine view of the sunrise, mountains, cactus and vineyards. Even though my visit is encroaching upon Argentina’s winter (July to September), it’s warm and the sun shines brightly.

At 9 a.m. I take a tour of the winery and taste Malbec wines straight from the oak barrels. When I get back, the horses are already saddled for my ride. The docile Peruvian Paso breed does everything I tell it to do. These horses are renowned for the way they push their hooves out to the side while walking, so I feel as if I’m floating rather than bumping along on a trail horse. I gallop through red canyons, sparse rivers, purple vineyards and rugged land full of cardón cactus plants. (Photo of Peruvian Paso by cowboyfrank.net.)

Dismounting with aching legs, my lunch is waiting for me on the Spanish-style terraza surrounded by willow trees and a view of vineyards. I’m served yet another three-course meal which ends with a scoop of fresh lemon sorbet and coca tea to help with digestion and the high altitude.

As you can imagine, I am truly exhausted from all the eating and horseback riding, so I pamper myself with a Swedish massage at the spa. Other afternoon activities I could  partake in include yoga in the meditation room, putting on a green, playing tennis or bocce ball and going on a bicycle tour. Unfortunately the eternity pool is too cold to enjoy during the winter months, but it’s beautiful to look at among the cactus garden.

Helpful Information About Colomé:

Web site: www.estanciacolome.com

When to Go: Year Round

Getting there: Most visitors fly to Salta, and then rent a car for the 3-5 hour drive to Colomé. Transportation by the estancia is offered at extra cost from Salta Airport and Cafayate, also helicopter and private plane transport into Colomé can be arranged. American Airlines flies from Miami via Bolivia to Salta for around $1,200.

Lodging at Estancia Colomé: Prices are all-inclusive with a three-course meal at lunch and dinner, breakfast buffet and afternoon tea. Wines are sold separately. Special two and three-day package deals are offered from $400 to $640/per person.

Reservations: A 50% advanced deposit must be guaranteed by a bank transfer or credit card. (A full refund will be given if the cancellation is more than 72 hours in advance). They accept Visa, Master Card and American Express. Check-in time is 3 p.m. and check-out time is noon. E-mail: reservas@estanciacolome.com,

Information: Tel: (from the U.S.) 011+54 (0) 3868 49-40-44,

Fax: 011+54 (0) 3868 49 40 43

Guided Tours: Guided tours are available in English, German or French around the Northwest area of Salta and Jujuy.

Need to bring: Sun block, hydrating lotion, lip protection, a good hat and walking shoes.

Location: 7,546 ft above sea level in the Calchaqui Valley in northwest Argentina.

Temperature: Summer: High 90/Low 68 F, Winter temperature: High 70/Low 38 F, with a mild, dry climate.

What to know: The conversion rate is $1 to 3 Argentine pesos. Visas are not required for U.S. citizens traveling within a 3-month time frame to Argentina.

Year-round Festivals:

National Poncho Festival in Molinos, February

Regional Food Expo in Cachí, March

Semana Santa in Seclantas, Easter

May Revolution in Salta, May 25

Empanada Festival in Salta, July

All Saint’s Day in Molinos, Nov 1

Stay tuned to next week's post on my top recommendations of places to eat, stay and wine taste in Mendoza, Argentina…