Patagonia: Argentina - Where to Stay

It’s the end of summer right now in Argentina and Chile. Why pack a bag full of scarves, wool hats, fluffy jackets and hiking boots to go to the cold Patagonia when you could slip into a bikini and relax on the beach in Punta del Este, Uruguay? For years I wrestled with this question.

I’ll tell you why: staggering mountains, crisp air, enormous glaciers, kind hospitality, gourmet food, stunning views…and the list goes on. 

After years of friends and family trying to convince me to go down to the Patagonia, I booked a rather “luxury” style all-inclusive 12-day trip through Exprinter Viajes travel agency. Previously, my friends had arranged the same trip through a U.S. travel agency, and it cost them three times more. I paid $4,400 for everything – airfare to Calafate from Buenos Aires, car rental, luxury hotels/B&Bs, trekking guides, gourmet meals, excursions, horseback riding, glacier boat trips…and every penny was worth it.

 

Below is my itinerary to the Patagonia (Argentina), with a few other important tidbits that I would have liked to know along the way before I left home. The best time of the year to go is late November to early March. I’ll write about the Patagonia (Chile) in next week’s blog post.

Kau Yatún Hotel de Campo (Calafate) – I stayed one night here to jumpstart my trip. This hotel is comfortable, the service is great and it’s located fairly near town. (Photo of Kau Yatún by Orbitz.com.)

They have a great restaurant on the premise, offering homemade emapandas, grilled steaks and a live show of Patagonian music/dance. Bikes are also available for hotel guests, so you can explore the one-street downtown or ride to the natural bird lagoon close by.

Hostería Altavista (Calafate) – I stayed two nights at this lovely B&B, to get a more remote experience. 

This quaint, seven-room house is located on the outskirts of Calafate in the middle of rolling hills and pastures. 

The experience is all-inclusive, with home-cooked meals, glacier excursions, horseback riding trips, as well as tours to nearby estancias. The Argentine couple who runs the place is very warm and helpful. I would highly recommend that you include this B&B in your itinerary.

Los Notros (Calafate) –  This hotel is extremely upscale and sits directly in front of the Perito Moreno Glacier. If you can't afford to stay here, then stop by for a cup of tea, and relax at its bar overlooking the lake. This is your jumping off point to go trekking on the glacier or take a boat ride around to all the various glaciers and to the national park.

Hostería Los Cerros (El Chalten) – You won’t want to miss visiting El Chaltén. From Calafate, it’s just a three-hour drive north to the small trekking village nestled between mountains and glaciers. 

This town was the highlight of my trip, as it is remote and the Argentines are so welcoming. (As a side note,  be prepared for strong winds. Make sure you pack a durable coat with a hood.) 

The Los Cerros hotel is pure luxury for this tiny town. You’re greeted with champagne, beer or tea/coffee and a picada (appetizer of cheese and cold cuts). 

Before you set off on your guided hiking excursion in the morning to see the famous Cerro Fitz Roy, you’re invited to feast at the breakfast buffet, which offers fresh fruits, nuts, homemade  bread and rosa mosqueta jam made from Patagonian berries. 

To completely spoil its guests, the hotel packs you a personalized lunch in a backpack for your day trip. And after your long excursion, you'll return to a relaxing jacuzzi dip or massage and enjoy a gourmet three-course dinner, with your choice of fresh trout, beef or pasta.

Since the town only consists of one pub, a wine bar and a few shops, you really can’t miss anything. But, make sure you stop into El Rincon wine bar and get a glass of Malbec and enjoy a fresh plate of salami with olives. 


There is also a cozy, bustling pub, which sells its own beers on tap and dishes out bowls of crunchy peanuts. Trekkers and guides love to unwind at this spot after a long day in the mountains.


***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's blog on tips for traveling to the Patagonia in Chile....