Saturday, January 23, 2010

Buenos Aires: Where to Eat


Finally! You get to the Buenos Aires Ezeiza International Airport and you’re starving, jet-lagged, disoriented and your taxi drops you off at your hotel. Where are you? Is there a place to get a cup of strong espresso, enjoy a plate of homemade pasta or indulge in a piece of juicy grilled steak? The next two blog posts will give you my top recommendations on eateries in Buenos Aires. I organized the article into typical Argentine eating times: desayuno (breakfast), almuerzo (lunch), merienda (teatime), cena (dinner) and postre (dessert).



Like most Europeans, Argentines eat a very simple breakfast, so it’s hard to come across restaurants that offer eggs in the morning, but for the needy traveler, I’ve recommended one spot that offers a scaled-down version of an “American-style” breakfast below. In Argentina, breakfast usually consists of a piece of toast with mermelada (jam) and queso blanco (cream cheese) or medialunas (small croissants) and facturas (bite-sized pastries). Argentines usually drink café con leche (cappuccino) or yerba mate (prounounced “shearba matay,” a strong, bitter, herbal tea sipped through a metal straw from a fist-sized gourd). Please note that restaurants do not offer yerba mate on the menu. You can ask for mate codido (a mate tea bag) so that you can taste it in a cup. 

Traditionally, yerba mate is shared between family and friends at home, in the park, at the beach, etc., and has a set of unspoken rules. The host usually brings the loose herbs and prepares the drink. Then he/she passes the gourd around the circle. Each person must sip all the hot water given to them, and then politely hand it back to the host to pour for the next person. If you have an Argentine friend and you are visiting their home, then kindly ask them to prepare you a yerba mate so that you can try it. 

Desayuno: Breakfast Spots
Angelica Café – This restaurant has outdoor seating along the pedestrian boulevard Charcas, in Barrio Norte.  It’s a great people-watching spot and aside from the traditional Argentine breakfast items on the menu, they offer scrambled eggs and omelets. The main drawback is that the service can be extremely slow, so leave ample time to eat. I used to live across the street, and I’d go in for a late breakfast all the time. I’d get a cappuccino and a tostado mixto (grilled ham and cheese sandwich), or in the evenings I’d order a fresh pizza and a Quilmes draught beer…but I’d always leave frustrated because the wait staff was so inattentive. I guess I never learned. Address: Charcas 3386, Barrio Norte (cross street: Bulnes). Tel: (00 54 11) 4825-1111.
 
Soho All Suites – This newly built, modern hotel located in the chic Palermo Soho neighborhood offers an over-priced, but well-worth-it continental breakfast. They serve a frothy and strong café con leche, accompanied with wholegrain toast, butter croissants, fresh cream cheese and a mixed-berry jam. The ambience in the private back patio area is Zen-like, with a trickling fountain, bamboo shoots and a floating water-lily garden. Address: Honduras 4762, Palermo Soho. Tel: (00 54 11) 4832-3000.

Almuerzo: Lunch Spots

Casa Roca - While walking downtown amongst deafening busses and crowds of people that can easily onset a migraine, peace is found at Casa Roca. This 19th century Italian-renaissance style mansion was the home of ex-president Julio A. Roca.  The high ceilings, crystal chandeliers, Persian rugs and wild pheasants roaming in the garden makes visitors feel as if they have been transported to the Tuscan countryside. 


The house has been converted into a quiet refuge in the city center, offering a gourmet three-course menu del dia, for around $16/per person. It is open for lunch only, Monday through Friday from 12:30 – 4 p.m. and reservations are a must. Be sure to request a garden table. Address: San Martin 579, Microcentro. Tel: (00 54 11) 4393-5777. (Photo of Casa Roca by Casa Roca.)


Baraka – Located on a side street, just a few blocks off of Plaza Serano, Baraka tends to attract artists and yuppies alike. This place is known for its freshly made pasta dishes, warm loaves of multi-grain bread and chocolate cake. It has a small patio upstairs with umbrellas, a comfy indoor eating area with sofas, and an outdoor seating space on the street as well. Address: Gurruchaga 1450, Palermo. Tel: (00 54 11) 4834-6427. Drop-in dining is recommended.

If you eat at a sit-down place anywhere in Buenos Aires, your dining experience will be around 2-3 hours, so allot yourself enough time to enjoy it. Remember, Argentines take pleasure in the company they’re with and the food they’re eating, so they dine at a leisure pace. If you’re in a rush, then forgo a long sit-down meal. Just grab a homemade empanada at any corner empanadería.
Empanadas are puffed half-moon pastries filled with mozzarella or Roquefort cheese, spiced beef, chicken, ham, spinach or humita (sweet corn). They are cooked either al horno (baked) or fritas (fried). (Photo of empanadas by Gadish of Wikipedia.)

Merienda: Coffee/Teatime Spots

Como en Casa – This is my favorite place to get an afternoon espresso or tea, hidden in the midst of the city bustle. At Como en Casa, there is a private French-style courtyard and fountain outside, so if it’s not raining, you can relax at an outdoor table and order from a menu that offers a plethora of chocolates, cakes or homemade quiches. Address: Laprida 1782, Recoleta. Tel: (00 54 11) 4829-0624.


Alvear Palace Hotel Walking down Avenida Alvear, which is considered the Rodeo Drive of Argentina, you will pass high-end designer shops (complete with Beverly Hills price-tags). Between 5-7 p.m. you may enjoy a traditional English tea at the upscale Alvear Palace Hotel garden room underneath a glass dome. The tea trays are filled with bite-size sandwiches and decadent pastries, as well as an assortment of authentic herbal tea blends. 


Each tray serves two people and costs roughly $17. Address: Avenida Alvear 1891, Recoleta. Tel: (00 54 11) 4804-2100. You’ll need to book a reservation in advance. (Photo of tea and pastries by Alvear Palace Hotel.)

RECOMMENDATIONS on Tips, Cash & Credit Cards:
  • When eating outdoors, always be aware of your surroundings and have your belongings on your lap, as there are children who will often beg at your table or pedestrians that might snatch your purse, wallet or camera.
  • 10% cash tip is suggested at all restaurants.
  • In Argentina, there is no space to add the tip on your credit card receipt, cash tips only.
  • Credit card receipts ask for three things: firma (signature), aclaración (printed name), and número de documento (driver’s license or passport number).
  • Be aware that U.S. credit card companies can charge up to 15% for foreign transactions, you find out later when you receive the monthly statement. 
  • When in doubt, use cash in Argentina. You'll always get a better rate.
***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's post on my top dinner spots, where a juicy steak comes accompanied by the perfect glass of Argentine wine…

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Buenos Aires: Getaways


Uneven sidewalks, crowded streets, dog walkers, buses and taxis whizzing by…escaping the intensity of the Buenos Aires city life can seem perplexing if you don’t know where to go. 
An estancia (18th century estate devoted to cattle ranching) is the perfect spot to get some rest for a day trip or an overnight stay. Depending on the type of estancia, most offer horseback riding, a pool area for lounging, bike riding, a traditional high-tea time and an Argentine asado (beef barbeque). Read below for my top two recommendations on estancias located just outside of Buenos Aires, as well as a lodge on stilts on the Parana Delta River.


Day/Overnight Trip: Estancias


One of my favorite retreats – just a 50-minute drive from the city – is the San Ceferino Hotel & Spa. Nestled among a lake and acres of greenery, this quaint estancia is a family-run estate. In addition to the activities listed above, San Ceferino has well-kept clay tennis courts, spa amenities and a farm where visitors can visit the free-range ostrich, sheep and cows roaming the grounds. 

Every day at 4 p.m. guests are invited to watch the “milking hour.” All of the estancia’s fresh cream and dulce de leche (thick caramel spread) is made on premise. For a day visit, the price (roughly $80/person) includes all outdoor activities, as well as a three-course gourmet lunch and a lavish afternoon tea.

For those who are interested in staying overnight, the San Ceferino rooms come with a lake view and are equipped with WiFi. Room rates start at $250/night and go to $500/night, which include breakfast, lunch, teatime and dinner.

Another highly recommended estancia (by friends who just spent their honeymoon in Argentina) is Dos Talas. This French-styled mansion is smack in the middle of the pampas (grasslands), and comes complete with gauchos (Argentine cowboys) to accompany you on your horseback rides. Other activities include bird watching in the lagoon and hiking on trails around the grounds. If you choose to stay the overnight, rooms start around $150/night, which include breakfast, lunch, teatime and dinner. (Dos Talas photo by Dianne Bouton.) 

Overnight Trip: The Delta River


Located only 18 miles north of Buenos Aires, there is an extraordinary ecological zone called the Parana Delta River. If you want an “Out-of-Africa” feel, then I recommend exploring this area. 


One place on the top of my list is La Becasina Delta Lodge. While jetting across the river on a private powerboat heading toward the lodge, you'll take in views of lush greenery, marshland and tall willow sticks dancing in the breeze. After a one-hour ride, you dock at the lodge’s entrance nestled among unkempt trees on a small side stream. Located on a private island, this resort has 15 luxurious cabañas on stilts, each with a view of the river and the surrounding jungle.

Upon entering, you’re greeted at an open-air safari-style bar with a cocktail and a platter of Argentine cheese and salami appetizers. Next to the bar is a swimming pool enveloped by towering trees with a view overlooking the stream. The private bungalows are linked to the main building through raised wooden walkways on stilts and each cabaña comes with a large private deck equipped with lounge chairs and a mosquito net. 



The modest and clean bedrooms (rates start at $175/night) have hardwood floors, a king-size bed, ceiling fans and air conditioning. Guests also bathe with a view of the jungle!
In my opinion, the best part about this place is that it is all-inclusive. Some of the daily activities include yoga in the open-aired thatched-roof hut and massages in the privacy of your own room. For the more adventurous types, the lodge offers kayaking and pedal-boating around the river.  Other options are to hang out at the gaucho bar or read and play board games by the fireplace in the library. (La Becasina Delta Lodge photos by La Becasina Delta Lodge.)

For some additional ideas about Delta river activities, such as riding the Tren de la Costa or going fishing, you can read the article I wrote for “BA Insider Magazine” on page 27 here: http://issuu.com/bainsider/docs/bainsider02 

***All photos are taken by myself, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's post on my top recommendations for local eateries in Buenos Aires…

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Buenos Aires: Where to Tango


Bodies press together. Eyes lock. Flirtatious legs twist and hips rotate from side to side. Deep, sorrowful sounds from the bandoleón penetrate the air. This is tango in its rawest, most passionate form. 


Just last year, tango was declared  part of the world's cultural heritage by the United Nations. In this blog post about Buenos Aires, I’ll give you recommendations about:

  • Where to see an incredible tango show
  • Who offers drop-in tango classes for beginner to advanced dancers
  • Why a milonga?
  • What to wear to a tango lesson


Tango Shows

To watch an intimate and very well-executed tango show, head to Bar Sur. Since there are only eight small tables in the place, you’ll feel as if you’re caught in the middle of the dancing couple’s ardor. This traditional tango bar, located in the San Telmo neighborhood, has been open for over 40 years and professional dancers perform from 8 p.m. to 3 a.m. daily. The fee is about $35 per person, with appetizers included. Reservations are a must, so be sure to call a few days in advance. Tel: (00 54 11) 4362-6086. (Bar sur photo by Bar Sur and photo of tango shoes by PasionTango.net.)




If you’re interested in seeing a more upscale and showy tango performance – which includes dancers, singers and a live orchestra – then reserve a spot at the Rojo Tango show in El Cabaret room at the swanky Hotel Faena. Designed by the famous Philippe Starck (known for hotels such as the Delano in Miami and the Mondrian in Los Angeles), the Faena occupies an old brick grain silo along the waterfront in Puerto Madero. Tango shows are held nightly at 10 p.m. The show alone costs $140, and a dinner/show combination costs $200. Call for reservations well in advance. Tel: (00 54 11) 5787-1536. (Tango Rojo photo by Hotel Faena.)


As a recommendation of what not to do…I’ve heard from many travelers that the Señor Tango show is expensive and gaudy, so be wary, and don’t let hotels persuade you into buying a pricey ticket from them.

Watch Tango for Free

To see tango dancers and musicians on the street, head to Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo on Sundays, where Argentina’s world-famous dance is celebrated in performances and artwork. Meander around the area, exploring the cobblestone streets and old-standing apartments now converted into cafes and pubs. This is a perfect area to stop for a chopp (draft beer) and an afternoon picada (assortment of sliced meats, cheeses and olives). 


If you venture towards downtown on a weekday, you’ll find tango dancers squeezed among the leather shops and multitudes of Argentines in suits walking to grab lunch on La Florida pedestrian street. In addition, La Boca neighborhood is well known for its Caminito street filled with spontaneous curb-side tango performances and colorful buildings. Take note that it’s quite a tourist trap, so I don’t highly recommend it.



Tango Lessons
Are you in the mood to learn a few tango steps or polish up on your moves? If so, you’re in luck. There are a plethora of drop-in dance studios in Buenos Aires for beginner to advanced dancers, but the top recommended places from expats and Argentines are listed below. Take note that classes cost about $5 and will be roughly a $7 cab ride from the Barrio Norte neighborhood.

Parakultural/La Catedral: Classes for principiantes (beginners) and intermedios (intermediates) are held on Tuesday nights at 9 p.m. and the milonga directly follows at 11 p.m. Address: Sarmiento 4006, doorbell # 5 (neighborhood: Almagro). Tel: (00 54 11) 4342- 4794.


Dinzel Studio: This is a small dance studio in Buenos Aires for intermediate to advanced dancers. For the past 30 years, Gloria and Rodolofo Dinzel have been dancing and teaching their own recipe of the tango. Address: Calle Jufre160 (neighborhood: Villa Crespo). Tel: (00 54 11) 4777-0405. (Dinzel Studios photo by Jorgen Lindh.)



Milongas
The word milonga has a dual meaning. A milonga is a musical genre and it also refers to a physical place to dance tango, like an underground dance club. People who regularly go to milongas are sometimes called milongueros. Below is a list of Argentine favorites, so when you visit them, feel free to sit back and watch, or dance if you feel comfortable. Be sure to take special note of the day of the week I recommend, as there is a large milonguero following on those specific nights:

El Niño Bien: This smaller milonga dance hall has a much more mature crowd, where a very traditional tango is danced. You'll see men wearing formal hats and suits, and the ladies conservatively dressed. Thursday nights are recommended. You can read Frommer’s review of it here: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/buenosaires/N29307.html Address: Humberto Primo 1462 (neighborhood: downtown). Tel: (00 54 11) 4147-8687.

Confiteria Ideal: A very popular spot among Argentines and foreigners, “La Ideal” is well-known for its milonga on Thursday nights. Tango classes are offered at 9 p.m. and the milonga starts at 11 p.m. Address:Suipacha 380 (neighborhood: downtown). Tel: (00 54 11) 5265-8069.


Calesitas Porteñas: This outdoor milonga is a great find during Argentina’s summer months (December, January and February). Saturday evening classes are at 9 p.m. and the milonga starts at 11 p.m. Address: Comodoro Rivadavia 1350 (neighborhood: Nuñez). Tel: (00 54 11) 4743-3631. (Calesitas Porteñas photo by VisitTangoBuenosAires.com )-3631

What to Wear
You can buy tango shoes on Calle Sarmiento and Calle Suipacha in downtown Buenos Aires. They’ll cost about $50 a pair, but will last you for many years. (I wear my tango shoes around town as well. They are so comfortable!) Your shoes will need to have slippery leather soles. Women should wear high heels as well as comfortable, tight fitting skirts or pants. Nylons, tights and fishnet stockings are a good option too. Men should wear dress pants and a collared shirt. For an extensive list on tango shows, tours, classes and milongas, visit: http://www.welcomeargentina.com/tango/lugares_i.html


***All photos are taken by myself, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's post on overnight getaways from Buenos Aires…

Friday, January 1, 2010

Buenos Aires: Where to Stay


I’m still addicted. I’ll confess that for the past seven years, every spare travel moment I get, I book a flight on Lan Airlines to Buenos Aires, Argentina. It all started off as a “study year” in 2003, when I did my master’s in journalism in Buenos Aires.


But very slowly, the entire living experience started to seep into my alma (soul). I got sucked in. I found that I couldn’t get away from the city’s natural European
flare, strong Italian cappuccinos, late night dining and dancing, bodies and legs twisting together in a tango, and most of all, the warm porteño hospitality from Buenos Aires natives. Mi querida Argentina (my beloved Argentina)…
As you can see, per my mad Argentina travel addiction, I thought it would be only natural to have my first few posts in “Molly Malone’s Travel Tips” blog focus on Buenos Aires and Argentina. I regularly get the same five questions about Buenos Aires from friends and family (as well as from strangers I meet at parties and on the street). If you  are planning a trip there, see below for some helpful information. If you have any questions, just drop me a line!


Top five questions I get about Buenos Aires:
  • Where do I stay?
  • Where can I see a good tango show?
  • What overnight trips from Buenos Aires should I take if I have some extra time?
  • Where should I go to eat?
  • What sights do you think are a “must see” and where do I go to shop?
After pointing my friends to the travel article I wrote for the “Los Angeles Times” titled “In Buenos Aires the Living’s Easy,” my top recommendations for places to stay are posted below. REMEMBER: Stay tuned to my blog through January, as I’ll continue to give you weekly inside scoops on where to see intimate (and affordable) tango shows, go for overnight getaways, dine at highly recommended local eateries, and hit the “must see” sights and shopping spots when pressed for time.


Top Places To Stay
Five Cool Rooms: Located in the heart of trendy Palermo Soho, the Five Cool Rooms quaint hotel comes recommended by friends who enjoyed staying there. Cost: $120-$240/night
depending on the size of the room. The place is clean, small and the staff is friendly. There is a balcony for sunbathing and WiFi is available.





Located nearby, you can eat lunch at a bustling parrilla (restaurant specializing in Argentine beef) and have breakfast or afternoon tea at many charming outdoor cafés where a strong cup of café con leche (cappuccino) and a plate of medialunas (small croissants) costs roughly $5 total (remember to always tip 10%). The only drawback to staying in this neighborhood is that it’s far from the subway (nine blocks) and a 15-20 minute cab ride downtown, which will cost about $8 per trip. (Five Cool Rooms photos by Shannon Gomes.)


Marriot Plaza Hotel: This is a prime location, but pricey. Room rates range from $350-$600/night, but visit their Deals at this hotel page to find affordable last-minute prices for as low as $180/night. If a pristine, convenient and large hotel feel is what you’re aiming for, then the Marriot Plaza Hotel is where you’ll be most comfortable. You’re just steps away from the swanky Recoleta neighborhood and the famous Florida pedestrian walk street, which is known for its upscale leather shops.  Directly across from the hotel is the lush Plaza San Martin park, offering a bit of tranquility in the midst of the hectic downtown rush. When I was living there, I splurged and stayed a night at the Marriot, which ended up as one of the best evenings my life. I walked to the underground Jazz Voyeur Club to watch a live jazz gig, ate bife de lomo (filet mignon) around the corner at El Mirasol steak house, and finished the night lounging on sofas in the lush gardens of the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Hotel with a Fernet Branca nightcap in hand.


VRBO (Vacation Rentals By Owner): For those of you who are staying in Buenos Aires for more than a few days, there are great options for apartments rentals on the VRBO Web site. Just make sure that you pick an apartment located in the Barrio Norte or Recoleta neighborhoods (or Palermo Soho if you don’t mind cabbing it to downtown.) A four bedroom/two bath runs about $1200/week. Other recommended apartment rental sites are: Sibiaires, International Nest and ByT Argentina.


***All photos are taken by myself, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's post on tango…