Bodies press together. Eyes lock. Flirtatious legs twist and hips rotate from side to side. Deep, sorrowful sounds from the bandoleón penetrate the air. This is tango in its rawest, most passionate form.
Just last year, tango was declared part of the world's cultural heritage by the United Nations. In this blog post about Buenos Aires, I’ll give you recommendations about:
- Where to see an incredible tango show
- Who offers drop-in tango classes for beginner to advanced dancers
- Why a milonga?
- What to wear to a tango lesson
Tango Shows
To watch an intimate and very well-executed tango show, head to Bar Sur. Since there are only eight small tables in the place, you’ll feel as if you’re caught in the middle of the dancing couple’s ardor. This traditional tango bar, located in the San Telmo neighborhood, has been open for over 40 years and professional dancers perform from 8 p.m. to 3 a.m. daily. The fee is about $35 per person, with appetizers included. Reservations are a must, so be sure to call a few days in advance. Tel: (00 54 11) 4362-6086. (Bar sur photo by Bar Sur and photo of tango shoes by PasionTango.net.)
If you’re interested in seeing a more upscale and showy tango performance – which includes dancers, singers and a live orchestra – then reserve a spot at the Rojo Tango show in El Cabaret room at the swanky Hotel Faena. Designed by the famous Philippe Starck (known for hotels such as the Delano in Miami and the Mondrian in Los Angeles), the Faena occupies an old brick grain silo along the waterfront in Puerto Madero. Tango shows are held nightly at 10 p.m. The show alone costs $140, and a dinner/show combination costs $200. Call for reservations well in advance. Tel: (00 54 11) 5787-1536. (Tango Rojo photo by Hotel Faena.)
As a recommendation of what not to do…I’ve heard from many travelers that the Señor Tango show is expensive and gaudy, so be wary, and don’t let hotels persuade you into buying a pricey ticket from them.
Watch Tango for Free
To see tango dancers and musicians on the street, head to Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo on Sundays, where Argentina’s world-famous dance is celebrated in performances and artwork. Meander around the area, exploring the cobblestone streets and old-standing apartments now converted into cafes and pubs. This is a perfect area to stop for a chopp (draft beer) and an afternoon picada (assortment of sliced meats, cheeses and olives).
If you venture towards downtown on a weekday, you’ll find tango dancers squeezed among the leather shops and multitudes of Argentines in suits walking to grab lunch on La Florida pedestrian street. In addition, La Boca neighborhood is well known for its Caminito street filled with spontaneous curb-side tango performances and colorful buildings. Take note that it’s quite a tourist trap, so I don’t highly recommend it.Tango Lessons
Are you in the mood to learn a few tango steps or polish up on your moves? If so, you’re in luck. There are a plethora of drop-in dance studios in Buenos Aires for beginner to advanced dancers, but the top recommended places from expats and Argentines are listed below. Take note that classes cost about $5 and will be roughly a $7 cab ride from the Barrio Norte neighborhood.Parakultural/La Catedral: Classes for principiantes (beginners) and intermedios (intermediates) are held on Tuesday nights at 9 p.m. and the milonga directly follows at 11 p.m. Address: Sarmiento 4006, doorbell # 5 (neighborhood: Almagro). Tel: (00 54 11) 4342- 4794.
Dinzel Studio: This is a small dance studio in Buenos Aires for intermediate to advanced dancers. For the past 30 years, Gloria and Rodolofo Dinzel have been dancing and teaching their own recipe of the tango. Address: Calle Jufre160 (neighborhood: Villa Crespo). Tel: (00 54 11) 4777-0405. (Dinzel Studios photo by Jorgen Lindh.)
Milongas
The word milonga has a dual meaning. A milonga is a musical genre and it also refers to a physical place to dance tango, like an underground dance club. People who regularly go to milongas are sometimes called milongueros. Below is a list of Argentine favorites, so when you visit them, feel free to sit back and watch, or dance if you feel comfortable. Be sure to take special note of the day of the week I recommend, as there is a large milonguero following on those specific nights:
El Niño Bien: This smaller milonga dance hall has a much more mature crowd, where a very traditional tango is danced. You'll see men wearing formal hats and suits, and the ladies conservatively dressed. Thursday nights are recommended. You can read Frommer’s review of it here: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/buenosaires/N29307.html Address: Humberto Primo 1462 (neighborhood: downtown). Tel: (00 54 11) 4147-8687.
Confiteria Ideal: A very popular spot among Argentines and foreigners, “La Ideal” is well-known for its milonga on Thursday nights. Tango classes are offered at 9 p.m. and the milonga starts at 11 p.m. Address:Suipacha 380 (neighborhood: downtown). Tel: (00 54 11) 5265-8069.
Calesitas Porteñas: This outdoor milonga is a great find during Argentina’s summer months (December, January and February). Saturday evening classes are at 9 p.m. and the milonga starts at 11 p.m. Address: Comodoro Rivadavia 1350 (neighborhood: Nuñez). Tel: (00 54 11) 4743-3631. (Calesitas Porteñas photo by VisitTangoBuenosAires.com )-3631
What to Wear
You can buy tango shoes on Calle Sarmiento and Calle Suipacha in downtown Buenos Aires. They’ll cost about $50 a pair, but will last you for many years. (I wear my tango shoes around town as well. They are so comfortable!) Your shoes will need to have slippery leather soles. Women should wear high heels as well as comfortable, tight fitting skirts or pants. Nylons, tights and fishnet stockings are a good option too. Men should wear dress pants and a collared shirt. For an extensive list on tango shows, tours, classes and milongas, visit: http://www.welcomeargentina.com/tango/lugares_i.html
***All photos are taken by myself, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's post on overnight getaways from Buenos Aires…
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