Buenos Aires: Where to Eat

Finally! You get to the Buenos Aires Ezeiza International Airport and you’re starving, jet-lagged, disoriented and your taxi drops you off at your hotel. Where are you? Is there a place to get a cup of strong espresso, enjoy a plate of homemade pasta or indulge in a piece of juicy grilled steak? The next two blog posts will give you my top recommendations on eateries in Buenos Aires. I organized the article into typical Argentine eating times: desayuno (breakfast), almuerzo (lunch), merienda (teatime), cena (dinner) and postre (dessert).

Like most Europeans, Argentines eat a very simple breakfast, so it’s hard to come across restaurants that offer eggs in the morning, but for the needy traveler, I’ve recommended one spot that offers a scaled-down version of an “American-style” breakfast below. In Argentina, breakfast usually consists of a piece of toast with mermelada (jam) and queso blanco (cream cheese) or medialunas (small croissants) and facturas (bite-sized pastries). Argentines usually drink café con leche (cappuccino) or yerba mate (prounounced “shearba matay,” a strong, bitter, herbal tea sipped through a metal straw from a fist-sized gourd). Please note that restaurants do not offer yerba mate on the menu. You can ask for mate codido (a mate tea bag) so that you can taste it in a cup. 

Traditionally, yerba mate is shared between family and friends at home, in the park, at the beach, etc., and has a set of unspoken rules. The host usually brings the loose herbs and prepares the drink. Then he/she passes the gourd around the circle. Each person must sip all the hot water given to them, and then politely hand it back to the host to pour for the next person. If you have an Argentine friend and you are visiting their home, then kindly ask them to prepare you a yerba mate so that you can try it. 

Desayuno: Breakfast Spots

Angelica Café – This restaurant has outdoor seating along the pedestrian boulevard Charcas, in Barrio Norte.  It’s a great people-watching spot and aside from the traditional Argentine breakfast items on the menu, they offer scrambled eggs and omelets. The main drawback is that the service can be extremely slow, so leave ample time to eat. I used to live across the street, and I’d go in for a late breakfast all the time. I’d get a cappuccino and a tostado mixto (grilled ham and cheese sandwich), or in the evenings I’d order a fresh pizza and a Quilmes draught beer…but I’d always leave frustrated because the wait staff was so inattentive. I guess I never learned. Address: Charcas 3386, Barrio Norte (cross street: Bulnes). Tel: (00 54 11) 4825-1111.

 

Soho All Suites – This newly built, modern hotel located in the chic Palermo Soho neighborhood offers an over-priced, but well-worth-it continental breakfast. They serve a frothy and strong café con leche, accompanied with wholegrain toast, butter croissants, fresh cream cheese and a mixed-berry jam. The ambience in the private back patio area is Zen-like, with a trickling fountain, bamboo shoots and a floating water-lily garden. Address: Honduras 4762, Palermo Soho. Tel: (00 54 11) 4832-3000.

Almuerzo: Lunch Spots

Casa Roca - While walking downtown amongst deafening busses and crowds of people that can easily onset a migraine, peace is found at Casa Roca. This 19^th century Italian-renaissance style mansion was the home of ex-president Julio A. Roca.  The high ceilings, crystal chandeliers, Persian rugs and wild pheasants roaming in the garden makes visitors feel as if they have been transported to the Tuscan countryside. 

The house has been converted into a quiet refuge in the city center, offering a gourmet three-course menu del dia, for around $16/per person. It is open for lunch only, Monday through Friday from 12:30 – 4 p.m. and reservations are a must. Be sure to request a garden table. Address: San Martin 579, Microcentro. Tel: (00 54 11) 4393-5777. (Photo of Casa Roca by Casa Roca.)

Baraka – Located on a side street, just a few blocks off of Plaza Serano, Baraka tends to attract artists and yuppies alike. This place is known for its freshly made pasta dishes, warm loaves of multi-grain bread and chocolate cake. It has a small patio upstairs with umbrellas, a comfy indoor eating area with sofas, and an outdoor seating space on the street as well. Address: Gurruchaga 1450, Palermo. Tel: (00 54 11) 4834-6427. Drop-in dining is recommended.

If you eat at a sit-down place anywhere in Buenos Aires, your dining experience will be around 2-3 hours, so allot yourself enough time to enjoy it. Remember, Argentines take pleasure in the company they’re with and the food they’re eating, so they dine at a leisure pace. If you’re in a rush, then forgo a long sit-down meal. Just grab a homemade empanada at any corner empanadería.

Empanadas are puffed half-moon pastries filled with mozzarella or Roquefort cheese, spiced beef, chicken, ham, spinach or humita (sweet corn). They are cooked either al horno (baked) or fritas (fried). (Photo of empanadas by Gadish of Wikipedia.)

Merienda: Coffee/Teatime Spots

Como en Casa – This is my favorite place to get an afternoon espresso or tea, hidden in the midst of the city bustle. At Como en Casa, there is a private French-style courtyard and fountain outside, so if it’s not raining, you can relax at an outdoor table and order from a menu that offers a plethora of chocolates, cakes or homemade quiches. Address: Laprida 1782, Recoleta. Tel: (00 54 11) 4829-0624.

Alvear Palace Hotel – Walking down Avenida Alvear, which is considered the Rodeo Drive of Argentina, you will pass high-end designer shops (complete with Beverly Hills price-tags). Between 5-7 p.m. you may enjoy a traditional English tea at the upscale Alvear Palace Hotel garden room underneath a glass dome. The tea trays are filled with bite-size sandwiches and decadent pastries, as well as an assortment of authentic herbal tea blends. 

Each tray serves two people and costs roughly $17. Address: Avenida Alvear 1891, Recoleta. Tel: (00 54 11) 4804-2100. You’ll need to book a reservation in advance. (Photo of tea and pastries by Alvear Palace Hotel.)

RECOMMENDATIONS on Tips, Cash & Credit Cards:

• When eating outdoors, always be aware of your surroundings and have your belongings on your lap, as there are children who will often beg at your table or pedestrians that might snatch your purse, wallet or camera.
• 10% cash tip is suggested at all restaurants.
• In Argentina, there is no space to add the tip on your credit card receipt, cash tips only.
• Credit card receipts ask for three things: firma (signature), aclaración (printed name), and número de documento (driver’s license or passport number).
• Be aware that U.S. credit card companies can charge up to 15% for foreign transactions, you find out later when you receive the monthly statement. 
• When in doubt, use cash in Argentina. You'll always get a better rate.

***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's post on my top dinner spots, where a juicy steak comes accompanied by the perfect glass of Argentine wine…