Buenos Aires: Where to Eat (Part 2)

Let’s see, where were we...oh, yes…biting into a juicy piece of steak and swirling a deep red wine in your mouth…or not quite yet. In last week’s blog post, I wrote about my top recommendations of where to eat breakfast and lunch in Buenos Aires. Below are my top picks of where to order a juicy piece of steak or grilled fish, homemade pasta and the perfect glass of wine to accompany your dinner. In this post, I recommend my favorite vinos (wines) and places to eat cena (dinner) and postre (dessert).  But before I jump in...PLEASE remember that Argentines do not dine before 9 p.m. Regular dinner hours are anywhere from 9-12 p.m., so if you book a reservation before this time, you will find yourself dining alone.

Vinos: Wines

For a mini-lesson on Argentine wines, the main grape grown in Argentina is the Malbec, which was brought over a century ago from Cahors, France. You will also find wines made from the Bonarda, Torrontes, Syrah, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot and Semillon grapes. In most restaurants there are some unique finds (and personal favorites) such as the intense, full-bodied Carlos Basso Malbec from the Viña Amalia Winery or the Altos Hormigas Malbec. Also, you can never go wrong ordering a bottle of a Catena Zapata wine, such as the Alamos Malbec. (Photo of wine glass by kickbuttcoffee.com.)

If you are interested in learning more about Argentina’s booming wine regions among foreign winemakers, you can start by tasting wines from California’s own Paul Hobbs, who started Viña Cobos winery in Mendoza, Argentina ten years ago. Try the full-bodied 2002 Cobos Malbec, which scored 95 points in the Wine Spectator magazine.

Cena: Dinner

El Mirasol and Juana M – Both of these restaurants specialize in grilling almost every part of the cow and come highly recommended by Argentines and travelers alike. Bife de lomo (filet mignon/tenderloin), bife de chorizo (t-bone), asado de tira (side ribs) and entraña (center cut) are just some of the dozens of meat options. For fish lovers, try the white salmon from Argentina’s costal town, Mar Del Plata, or ask for the fresh-water trout from the Patagonia region. 

Remember that all beef dishes come a la carte, so if you want more food, order a salad or a side to accompany your meal. Some typical side dishes are papas fritas (French fries) or espinaca a la crema (creamed spinach). A three-course dinner for two with a fine bottle of local Malbec wine will cost around $30. Both restaurants are located in the Recoleta neighborhood (just click on the link for the addresses and telephone). (Photo of steak and salad by El Mirasol.)

El Ultimo Beso – This restaurant is called "The Last Kiss" in Spanish, and it is truly for the romantic at heart. El Ultimo Beso is situated in a French-style house in Palermo, where the front half is a boutique clothing store, and the back area is a whimsical eatery and open garden. The white tables are scattered with rose petals and love-letters scribbled with poetry delicately dangle from the chandeliers. You feel as if you are lost in a lover’s embrace when you glance around the room at the black and white photos of couples kissing.  

The food is extremely gourmet and the service is impeccable. Prices are reasonable too. The fresh fish of the day is always my favorite choice, as well as the homemade risotto. For dessert, be sure to try the volcán de chocolate (chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream). You’ll need reservations, so call a day in advance. Address: Nicaragua 4880, Palermo Viejo. Tel: (00 54 11) 4832-7711

Casa Cruz - For elite dining in the neighborhood, and an excuse to break away from Argentina’s carnivore-centric cuisine, you should try the stylish Casa Cruz Restaurant. Towering brass doors lead you into a softly lit room with an oval shaped bar, long sofas and burgundy velvet chairs. The entire back wall of the dining area is built of glass, converted into a transparent wine cellar with a view of the kitchen.

The chef, German Martitegui, is among the most famous in Buenos Aires, preparing dishes that are substantial in quantity and always delicately presented. Some past menu items included lightly smoked red tuna with lentil bean salad or grilled octopus with passion fruit puree. An average entrée costs around $14. The list of 100-plus wines represents Argentina’s best, and ranges in price from $7 to $200 a bottle. If you’re just going for a drink, try the lychee martini…it is so smooth.

Since it opened just a few years ago, Casa Cruz has become the craze for Argentine models and businessmen, where visits from international pop-stars like Enrique Iglesias (I sat next to him!) and actors such as Colin Farrell and Benicio Del Toro are everyday occurrences. Be sure to make your reservations at least two days in advance. Address: Uriarte 1658, Palermo. Tel: (00 54 11) 4833-1112. (Photo of Casa Cruz by Casa Cruz and photo of lychee martini by Foodnetwork.com.)

Bar Uriarte – Just around the corner from Casa Cruz is a cozy restaurant that is perfect for before/after drinks or dinner. Get crazy and order Argentina's refreshing anise-flavored drink called a fernet y coca (fernet liquor with coke on ice). With Bar Uriarte's own clay oven, you can’t go wrong ordering the fresh baked pastas or oven-roasted beef dishes. Most of my friends swear by the ribs dish. Usually no reservations are necessary. Address: Uriarte 1572, Palermo. Tel: (00 54 11) 4834-6004. (Photo of Bar Uriarte by Jaunted.com.)

Postre: Dessert Spots

Munchi’s, Persico and Freddo – All three chains offer the BEST gourmet gelato I have ever tasted in my life (and they deliver to your home or hotel too).  These places are open until 4 a.m. on weekends, so you’ll notice crowds of Argentines going for a late-night snack after dinner or the bars. 

My favorite flavors are the dulce de leche granizado (caramel cream with bits of chocolate) or the crema tramontana (vanilla cream, swirled caramel and chunks of chocolate). Ordering is a bit tricky. You must first stand in line, give the cashier your order (just tell him/her the size of the scoop, not the flavor) and then pay. He/she will hand  you a receipt and you give that piece of paper to the gelato-scooper guy, who will then fill your cone or cup with the flavor you want. These gelato chains are located on almost every corner of Buenos Aires. (Photo of gelato by nclrc.com.)

In addition to my recommendations above, I recently read an article in the NY Times Travel Section titled “36 Hours in Buenos Aires” and it gives some different suggestions on places to eat. You can read it here to find out more spots: http://travel.nytimes.com/2010/01/31/travel/31hours.html?ref=travel

***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's post on my favorite estancia in northern Argentina…