It’s 90 degrees and dusty. I’m in Northern Argentina near Salta. There’s no air conditioning in the rental car, so with the windows rolled down, I wipe the sand from my eyes while driving up the switchback dirt road going from Salta to Molinos.
Reaching 7,500 feet in elevation, my destination is the highest vineyard in the world and the oldest in Argentina, Estancia Colomé.
Built by Swiss international winemaker, Donald Hess, this multimillion-dollar project converted an ancient one-room winery into a luxurious spa and small hotel. The vision of Hess’s estancia has always intrigued me: wine-makers from California manning dry and rugged terrain, attempting to grow grapes at the world’s highest altitude with little water, no electricity and speaking broken Spanish. I decide to take a road-trip and see for myself.
Along the drive, my eyes feast on jagged mountains, weathered gauchos on horseback and indigenous ruins with cactus-spotted foregrounds in the Calchaqui Valley. I feel completely distanced from any sign of urban life.
I pass a string of pueblos and do some souvenir shopping in Cachí in the open-air plaza. I stop for lunch at a one-roomed restaurant and order the menú del día (daily special) with a glass of the region's Malbec wine, all for just $3. My lunch consists of empanadas (puffed pastries stuffed with beef), a bowl of beef and potato locro stew, and sweet corn humita puree. By the time I pay the bill, the town is dead silent; everyone is taking their afternoon siesta (nap). (Photo of woman by the road by Daniel Grech.)
I hop in the car and navigate the last stretch of the sandy, rocky and barren road. The drive from Salta takes me five-hours, but it’s worth the tense shoulders and stiff legs. I drive up a tree-lined driveway to the illuminated salmon-colored estancia where the concierge warmly greets me and two bellboys take my bags. I inhale the dry, clean air mixed with a sweet aroma of baking bread.
I’m shown through the open-air courtyard with rancho-style stucco walls, rustic wood benches, red-tiled floors and a trickling stone fountain in the center. The suites are positioned around the courtyard and my room is the same size as my entire apartment, nearly 600 sq ft. It’s equipped with a king-size bed, 1,000 thread-count sheets, fireplace, jacuzzi bathtub, a large private patio overlooking the staggering Calchaquies mountain range and Wi-Fi Internet connection.
After resting up, I’m invited by the concierge to have appetizers in the library at 9 p.m. (Argentines generally eat dinner between 9 and 12pm). I sit with the other guests on the large leather couches next to a crackling fireplace and we are served a plate of baked empanadas and a glass of the red varietal, Colomé Reserve.
Next, they escort us to the dining room filled with candles glowing against the orange-colored walls. Our three-course meal consists of glazed wild mushrooms on mixed greens, top-sirloin stuffed with blue cheese and pine nuts, and a lemon tart pie with vanilla ice cream – all prepared with free-range livestock, fruits and vegetables cultivated on Hess’s organic farm. To top it all off, I have a nightcap at the gaucho-style bar and loose to a game of backgammon (surprising, I know!).
At 8 a.m. I wake to a knock on the door. A breakfast tray overflowing with warm croissants and muffins, homemade granola and yogurt, fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee is waiting at my doorstep. I eat on my private patio with a pristine view of the sunrise, mountains, cactus and vineyards. Even though my visit is encroaching upon Argentina’s winter (July to September), it’s warm and the sun shines brightly.
At 9 a.m. I take a tour of the winery and taste Malbec wines straight from the oak barrels. When I get back, the horses are already saddled for my ride. The docile Peruvian Paso breed does everything I tell it to do. These horses are renowned for the way they push their hooves out to the side while walking, so I feel as if I’m floating rather than bumping along on a trail horse. I gallop through red canyons, sparse rivers, purple vineyards and rugged land full of cardón cactus plants. (Photo of Peruvian Paso by cowboyfrank.net.)
Dismounting with aching legs, my lunch is waiting for me on the Spanish-style terraza surrounded by willow trees and a view of vineyards. I’m served yet another three-course meal which ends with a scoop of fresh lemon sorbet and coca tea to help with digestion and the high altitude.
As you can imagine, I am truly exhausted from all the eating and horseback riding, so I pamper myself with a Swedish massage at the spa. Other afternoon activities I could partake in include yoga in the meditation room, putting on a green, playing tennis or bocce ball and going on a bicycle tour. Unfortunately the eternity pool is too cold to enjoy during the winter months, but it’s beautiful to look at among the cactus garden.
Helpful Information About Colomé:
When to Go: Year Round
Getting there: Most visitors fly to Salta, and then rent a car for the 3-5 hour drive to Colomé. Transportation by the estancia is offered at extra cost from Salta Airport and Cafayate, also helicopter and private plane transport into Colomé can be arranged. American Airlines flies from Miami via Bolivia to Salta for around $1,200.
Lodging at Estancia Colomé: Prices are all-inclusive with a three-course meal at lunch and dinner, breakfast buffet and afternoon tea. Wines are sold separately. Special two and three-day package deals are offered from $400 to $640/per person.
Reservations: A 50% advanced deposit must be guaranteed by a bank transfer or credit card. (A full refund will be given if the cancellation is more than 72 hours in advance). They accept Visa, Master Card and American Express. Check-in time is 3 p.m. and check-out time is noon. E-mail: reservas@estanciacolome.com,
Information: Tel: (from the U.S.) 011+54 (0) 3868 49-40-44,
Fax: 011+54 (0) 3868 49 40 43
Guided Tours: Guided tours are available in English, German or French around the Northwest area of Salta and Jujuy.
Need to bring: Sun block, hydrating lotion, lip protection, a good hat and walking shoes.
Location: 7,546 ft above sea level in the Calchaqui Valley in northwest Argentina.
Temperature: Summer: High 90/Low 68 F, Winter temperature: High 70/Low 38 F, with a mild, dry climate.
What to know: The conversion rate is $1 to 3 Argentine pesos. Visas are not required for U.S. citizens traveling within a 3-month time frame to Argentina.
Year-round Festivals:
National Poncho Festival in Molinos, February
Regional Food Expo in Cachí, March
Semana Santa in Seclantas, Easter
May Revolution in Salta, May 25
Empanada Festival in Salta, July
All Saint’s Day in Molinos, Nov 1
Stay tuned to next week's post on my top recommendations of places to eat, stay and wine taste in Mendoza, Argentina…
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