Monday, February 15, 2010

Mendoza: Where to Wine Taste, Eat & Sleep

The barren surroundings, unmarked roads and mountainous backdrops of the Mendoza wine district serve as a goldmine for winemakers around the world. Located in the central west of Argentina, Mendoza snuggles up to the Andes Mountain range along the Chilean border. Mendoza’s century-old vines, rare microclimate and grape growth of up to 4,900 feet in elevation allow visitors to taste some of the world’s top wines year-round.

The main grape grown is the malbec, but you’ll also find the bonarda, syrah, cabernet, chardonnay, merlot and semillón grapes. When I was living in Buenos Aires, I wrote my journalism thesis on the vital relationship between Argentine and Californian winemakers in Mendoza, and I had the privilege of meeting some of the most famous wine gurus of our time. That being the case, I have a gazillion favorite places to wine taste and dine in Mendoza, but I’ll only name my top few below.

Where to Wine Taste and Eat
In my opinion, one of the most spectacular sights in Mendoza is winemaker Nicolas Catena Zapata’s Bodega Uxmal. In the midst of 370 acres of vineyards, this Mayan-inspired pyramid looks out onto the Andes mountain range and offers tastings of exceptionally made wines, such as the Uxmal cabernet/malbec blend.

Zapata also co-owns the very chic 1884 Restaurante with renowned chef Francis Mallmann. Located on the outskirts of town, this restaurant serves grilled, organic meats such as veal and lamb, exotically prepared vegetables and mouthwatering pastas. Be prepared to pay more than you think, but the 15 minute drive outside of town and the high prices are well worth the exclusive dining experience. (Photo of dining room by 1884restaurante.com.ar.)


For a personalized wine-tasting experience, I recommend visiting the quaint, family-run winery, Finca Viña Amalia. They make exceptional malbecs and cabernet sauvignons under the labels Viña Amalia and their high-end line, Carlos Basso. 

Tastings take place in their winery, which was originally built in 1930. The building has since been renovated, but still preserves its original look with a rustic tiled roof, high ceilings and an adobe tower in the central patio.

An ideal place to indulge in a hearty lunch around 1 or 2 p.m. is at the Familia Zuccardi winery. Here you’re served a never-ending flow of empanadas and grilled meats. And of course, your glass will stay full with some of the most full-bodied wines in Argentina. To arrive at the restaurant, you actually have to walk through the vineyards. The dining area is made up of large windows and a transparent roof, making you feel as if you’re picnicking among the vineyards. If you want to participate in a cooking class or help during the cosecha (harvest), you can organize it with a travel agency. If you choose to pick grapes during harvest time, remember that the seasons are opposite the northern hemisphere, so Argentine’s wine harvest takes place between February and April.


To taste the most amazing and out-of-this-world wines, visit Viña Cobos or pick up a bottle of winemaker Paul Hobb’s “El Cocodrilo” or “El Felino” in a local wine boutique. The only drawback about visiting Viña Cobos is that you must reserve a visit in advance.

Where to Stay
Another great find is the restaurant and seven-roomed hotel, Club TapizThis small hotel, restaurant and bar is located on an estate built in 1890 and is completely surrounded by vineyards. 

The restaurant Terruño has warm burgundy and mustard colored walls with pinewood floors. The food is elegantly prepared and paired with Tapiz wines. 

If you stay the night, bring a swim suit for the pool, and be sure to request the room with a window, as there is only one available! Another idea is to stay at an estancia outside of town for a few nights. My friends, who recently traveled to Mendoza, recommend the three bedroom Estancia Rancho' E Cuero, just a two hour drive from the city and located at the base of the Nivero de Plata Glacier. 

They were spoiled with three meals a day, delicious regional wines and a traditional teatime in the afternoon. Activities at the estancia include horseback riding, hiking, condor watching and rock climbing in the nearby mountains. Otherwise you can opt to relax and read a book in the cozy library. (Photo of estancia by ranchoecuero.com.ar.)

For a truly grand hotel experience, and to be situated in the town center, stay at the luxurious Mendoza Park Hyatt. It has a fancy restaurant, a casino and a beautiful spa. Indulge and let me know what you think!

Activities to Do In/Around Mendoza
If you have some free time to wander around the main town of Mendoza, visit one of its Spanish-tiled plazas or enjoy a café con leche along the pedestrian street. Just 25 miles outside the city is the Mendoza River, which has become a hot spot for whitewater rafting, kayaking, horseback riding, mountain biking and hiking.


Booking Travel
You can easily purchase day-trip packages for wine tours and sporting activities, which provide transportation to/from hotel, and usually a rustic asado (Argentine barbeque) in the wine country or mountains. I recommend booking all day-trip tours and any additional travel around Argentina/South America through Exprinter Viajes or Partir Viajes travel agencies. Both are very reliable and offer great rates. 


Using a trusted Argentine travel agency will save you up to 50% in costs, as opposed to booking travel and packages through a U.S. travel agency. Exprinter Viajes can also create very personalized tours if you have special requests. 

















***All photos are taken by me, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's blog on tips of how to enjoy luxurious travel in the Patagonia…

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