Buenos Aires: Getaways

Uneven sidewalks, crowded streets, dog walkers, buses and taxis whizzing by…escaping the intensity of the Buenos Aires city life can seem perplexing if you don’t know where to go. 

An estancia (18th century estate devoted to cattle ranching) is the perfect spot to get some rest for a day trip or an overnight stay. Depending on the type of estancia, most offer horseback riding, a pool area for lounging, bike riding, a traditional high-tea time and an Argentine asado (beef barbeque). Read below for my top two recommendations on estancias located just outside of Buenos Aires, as well as a lodge on stilts on the Parana Delta River.

Day/Overnight Trip: Estancias

One of my favorite retreats – just a 50-minute drive from the city – is the San Ceferino Hotel & Spa. Nestled among a lake and acres of greenery, this quaint estancia is a family-run estate. In addition to the activities listed above, San Ceferino has well-kept clay tennis courts, spa amenities and a farm where visitors can visit the free-range ostrich, sheep and cows roaming the grounds. 

Every day at 4 p.m. guests are invited to watch the “milking hour.” All of the estancia’s fresh cream and dulce de leche (thick caramel spread) is made on premise. For a day visit, the price (roughly $80/person) includes all outdoor activities, as well as a three-course gourmet lunch and a lavish afternoon tea.

For those who are interested in staying overnight, the San Ceferino rooms come with a lake view and are equipped with WiFi. Room rates start at $250/night and go to $500/night, which include breakfast, lunch, teatime and dinner.

Another highly recommended estancia (by friends who just spent their honeymoon in Argentina) is Dos Talas. This French-styled mansion is smack in the middle of the pampas (grasslands), and comes complete with gauchos (Argentine cowboys) to accompany you on your horseback rides. Other activities include bird watching in the lagoon and hiking on trails around the grounds. If you choose to stay the overnight, rooms start around $150/night, which include breakfast, lunch, teatime and dinner. (Dos Talas photo by Dianne Bouton.) 

Overnight Trip: The Delta River

Located only 18 miles north of Buenos Aires, there is an extraordinary ecological zone called the Parana Delta River. If you want an “Out-of-Africa” feel, then I recommend exploring this area. 

One place on the top of my list is La Becasina Delta Lodge. While jetting across the river on a private powerboat heading toward the lodge, you'll take in views of lush greenery, marshland and tall willow sticks dancing in the breeze. After a one-hour ride, you dock at the lodge’s entrance nestled among unkempt trees on a small side stream. Located on a private island, this resort has 15 luxurious cabañas on stilts, each with a view of the river and the surrounding jungle.

Upon entering, you’re greeted at an open-air safari-style bar with a cocktail and a platter of Argentine cheese and salami appetizers. Next to the bar is a swimming pool enveloped by towering trees with a view overlooking the stream. The private bungalows are linked to the main building through raised wooden walkways on stilts and each cabaña comes with a large private deck equipped with lounge chairs and a mosquito net. 

The modest and clean bedrooms (rates start at $175/night) have hardwood floors, a king-size bed, ceiling fans and air conditioning. Guests also bathe with a view of the jungle!

In my opinion, the best part about this place is that it is all-inclusive. Some of the daily activities include yoga in the open-aired thatched-roof hut and massages in the privacy of your own room. For the more adventurous types, the lodge offers kayaking and pedal-boating around the river.  Other options are to hang out at the gaucho bar or read and play board games by the fireplace in the library. (La Becasina Delta Lodge photos by La Becasina Delta Lodge.)

For some additional ideas about Delta river activities, such as riding the Tren de la Costa or going fishing, you can read the article I wrote for “BA Insider Magazine” on page 27 here: http://issuu.com/bainsider/docs/bainsider02 

***All photos are taken by myself, Molly Malone, unless otherwise specified. Photos are not available for re-posting or publication. Stay tuned to next week's post on my top recommendations for local eateries in Buenos Aires…